Khau Vai Love Market in Ha Giang
Khau Vai Love Market has got to be one of the most special festivals in Vietnam. It's the time of year when locals of the Khau Vai commune gather in a fair, to meet ex-lovers, to rekindle and reconnect without jealousy or hindrance from their current lovers. Sounds weird? There is actually a beautiful history behind it all and the Khau Vai Love Market has been recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage by the government. Let's find out more about this interesting festival that is only held once every year.

Where is the Khau Vai Love Market?
The Khau Vai Love Market is located in Khau Vai commune, Meo Vac district, about 170km from Ha Giang city center.
How to get there?
Getting to Ha Giang from the Northern provinces is very easy because there are many direct bus companies. On the contrary, tourists living far away in the South or Central region should start their journey from Hanoi. From Hanoi, almost every hour there are buses departing from My Dinh, Luong Yen, Yen Nghia, Gia Lam bus stations. You can choose high-quality sleeper buses or limousines, depending on your finances. The trip takes around 6 hours, from there you could either get to Meo Vac by motorbike or by private car, which could take another 5 to 6 hours.
Therefore, combining the trip to the Khau Vai Love Market with visits to other must-see destinations in Ha Giang is recommended. On the way, stop by the H'Mong King's Palace, Lung Cu Flagpole, the northernmost part of Vietnam, Dong Van ancient town, and one of Vietnam's "Four Great Passes" - Ma Pi Leng Pass, etc.

When does the Khau Vai Love Market take place?
Every year, on the 27th of the third lunar month, people of the Khau Vai commune put on their best clothes to come to this market to look for their former lovers, and it has been a tradition for over a century, ever since 1919. The Khau Vai love market in Ha Giang has become an annual festival, in which entertainment shows and cultural activites have been integrated so the market now spans 3 days, from the 25th to the 27th.
The legend and history behind the Khau Vai Love Market
The Khau Vai Love Market originated from the story of a boy named Ba, and a girl named Ut who loved each other very much. However, their love was forbidden because of their backgrounds: Ba was a poor boy from the Nung ethnic while Ut was the eldest child in a wealthy family of the Giay ethnic. Because of family interference, they couldn't be together but their love remained unchanged. They decided to meet once a year on the 27th of March of the lunar calendar on the mountain of Khau Vai, where they would sing and talk to each other about all the things that happened that year. They would spend the night together and come back to their normal lives the next morning. To honor the beautiful but tragic love story of Ba and Ut, the locals built 2 temples called Ong and Ba (Sir and Madam) and choose the 27th day of the third lunar month to host a market called the Khau Vai Market, where couples, married or not, come to see their past lovers without any jealousy or interference from their current lovers. The beauty about the market, is that it's a place of non-judgement where unmarried people can interact and married couples can reunite with their past lovers, the ones that "could have been" for only one day of the year.
 
 
The festivities of the Khau Vai Love Market
The market spans 3 days and consists of 2 parts: the ritual and the festival.
During the ritual: the locals make offerings to the temple of Ong and Ba as a way to honor their love and ask for permission to start the festival.
During the festival: people participate in cultural activities, entertainment shows and folk games. They also sell handcraft products and local specialties in the market.

Visiting the Khau Vai Market
Planning to visit the Khau Vai Market in Ha Giang? We've got you. Here is a proposed 3-day plan to visit the Market with surrounding villages and destinations:
Day 1: Hanoi - Ha Giang
In the morning, get on a comfortable Sleeper Bus and depart for Ha Giang. We recommend booking your tickets in advance for the best price. You could also get there via private car provided by a trusted local travel agency. Either way, it's gonna be a 6-hour ride to Ha Giang so prepare all your essentials and get comfortable!
You arrive at Ha Giang Province in the afternoon. In Phuong Do commune, Ha Giang, there are two villages located adjacent to each other, Tha village and Ha Thanh village, named "The thatched village". Visit the two villages and discover over 200 peaceful stilt houses, located along Tien Spring with fresh flowing water all year round, along with the rustic life of the indigenous Tay people, attracting tourists all over the world. Enjoy a local dinner and night in a homestay in Tha village.
Day 2: Ha Giang - Khau Vai
After breakfast, depart for Khau Vai Love Market and visit some of Ha Giang's most famous destinations along the way. About 40km from Ha Giang city, Quan Ba Pass or Quan Ba Heaven Gate is a famous check-point ressembling a doorway to Heaven, where you get a full view of the Twin Mountains, the valley and small villages down below. Continue the trip on route 4C while admiring the beautiful landscapes of the Vietnamese northwestern region. Stop at a local restaurant to try local specialties.
About 44km from Meo Vac, visit the H'Mong King's Palace, notoriously known as the "Opium Palace", is a century old mansion that survived 2 major wars - the French war and American war - and now recognized as the symbol of past glory for the H'Mong.
Arrive at the Khau Vai Love Market, where men and women of the local region meet to rekindle their past romance for only one day of the year. Participate in folk games and cultural activities.
Dine at a local restaurant and night in a homestay in Meo Vac.
Day 3: Ha Giang - Hanoi
After breakfast, continue your visit in the Khau Vai Love Market. Check out the local specialties and handcraft goods sold at the market that you could buy as souvenir. Lunch at a local restaurant and head back to Hanoi.



 
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