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Dong Van Old Quarter
Nestled within the breathtaking landscapes of Ha Giang, Dong Van Old Quarter stands as a testament to the rich cultural tapestry and historical charm that graces the province. Surrounded by majestic rocky mountains, this town is an indispensable stop along the celebrated Ha Giang Loop, offering a captivating journey through time and tradition. If you plan on visiting but don't know what to see or where to stay in Dong Van Old Quarter, then you’re in the right place. Join us as we embark on an exploration of this captivating destination.
Dong Van Old Quarter
Source: Internet
Dong Van Old Quarter was formed over many years, from the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In 1887, when the French occupied Ha Giang, they recognized its strategic importance, which was near the China border. So, they started to establish administrative offices, military posts, marketplaces, and residential buildings to manage the region.
They hired craftsmen from Sichuan (a province in China) to construct them. With their expertise and high craftsmanship, they utilized the bluestones from the Dong Van Karst Plateau as materials to build everything.
Dong Van Old Quarter consists of approximately 40 ancient houses arranged in two rows at the foot of the rocky mountain, including over 20 houses with a history of over 100 years. Some of the oldest houses include Mr. Luong Trieu Hoi's house, built around 1890.
Initially, the ancient town was only inhabited by some Tay, Hoa, and Mong households. It wasn’t until the 20th century that the Kinh, Dao, and Nùng came to build houses and establish livelihoods.
Dong Van market
Source: Internet
Alongside the ancient town is Dong Van Market, located opposite, consisting of three rows of single-story houses arranged in a U shape, with tiled roofs on wooden rafters and columns. This is Dong Van’s largest market and is held only on Sundays. Much like local markets in other regions, Dong Van Market is where you can find stalls selling colorful clothes, brocade, vegetables, fruits, accessories, and local specialties, such as thang co, corn wine, au tau porridge, banh cuon, five-color sticky rice, and buffalo meat, etc.
Every lunar month on the 14th, 15th, and 16th, the "Ancient Town Night" is held. During this event, people hang up red lanterns as if to dispel the coldness of the karst plateau. Some activities include displaying traditional handicrafts and selling dishes from different ethnicities.
Pho Co Coffee
Source: Internet
Most people when visiting Dong Van Old Quarter, make a stop at Pho Co Coffee, located just behind the market. If you’ve been to one of the retro cafes in Hanoi like Cong, you’re probably going to enjoy Pho Co Coffee as well, because it is actually redesigned from an ancient house that has been standing for hundreds of years. The first thing you’ll notice is the distinctive style of the Hmong architecture with stone walls, wooden floors, stairs, and a skylight to create a spacious feeling within the house.
The ground floor is for those who prefer sitting on bamboo or rattan chairs, while the second floor is for those who like to stretch their legs, sit on the floor, lean against the wall, and leisurely enjoy a cup of coffee. If you’re early, you can have a spot on the balcony and have a view of the town and the distant mountains. There are also guitars around for those who like to play.
Try the specialties
Source: Internet
Trying the local specialties is one of the best parts of traveling. Luckily, there is a plethora of dishes that Dong Van offers. The first answer to the question "What to eat in Dong Van?" is Black Chicken Hot Pot. It is a traditional hot pot dish of the people in Dong Van, made with black chicken, a chicken breed raised in the mountainous region. Like other hot pot dishes, you can add other ingredients such as vegetables, mushrooms, beef, and noodles.
Another Dong Van specialty that you need to try is Pho Trang Kim. What sets Pho Trang Kim apart from other Pho dishes, is that the noodles are made from scratch, have a deeper color, and are manually cut. Pho Trang Kim uses chicken, typically free-range, so the meat is more firm and delicious.
You may have heard of "men men" and "to chua" when in Ha Giang, which are two vegan dishes even though their names may sound like weird types of mountain meat. "Men men" is made from steamed cornmeal, while "to chua" is made from crushed soybeans and “cai meo”, a local specialty. "Men men" and "to chua" are usually eaten together, the freshness of "to chua" and the subtle sweetness of "men men" are such a great combination.
How to get to Dong Van Old Quarter
To get from Hanoi to Dong Van Old Quarter, you first need to reach Ha Giang. There are multiple buses between Hanoi and Ha Giang, operating from 5:00 AM to 9:00 PM. This is a safer and less tiring option, because the ride takes around 6 hours. From Hanoi, you can get on a bus from My Dinh Station to reach Ha Giang.
Upon reaching Ha Giang, you will need to travel an additional 100 kilometers to reach Dong Van Old Quarter. You can take another bus to Dong Van or rent a motorbike. If you prefer a more comfortable choice, you can always get a private car provided by a travel agency, who can also plan out the tour for you.
Where to stay in Dong Van
Source: Internet
There are many hotels and guesthouses in and around Dong Van Old Quarter. If you choose to stay within the town, you will be close to the old quarter and have more options for dining. However, it is good to consider staying outside of the town. There are plenty of homestays in small villages where you can learn much more about the culture of the minorities than if you stayed in the town. For a more local experience, try to find homestay accommodations around Lung Cu.
Some accommodations we recommend:
Green Karst Hostel & Bar – Clean and comfortable, close to restaurants and bars. Everything you need after a long day of traveling.
Hoang Ngoc Hotel – One of the best hotels in Dong Van. Rooms are clean and tidy. Located in the town center, close to restaurants.
Triệu Nghị Homestay – A favorite for many backpackers doing the Ha Giang loop. Friendly family and good dinner.
Lam Tung Hotel – A very decent hotel right in the center of the town, with nice rooms.
Binh Minh Hostel – Located in town. Nice large room with a clean bathroom. Perfect for an overnight stay during the journey. Plenty of dining options nearby.
